Tuesday, Feb. 11, 1964 — Left the Cleveland airport (15 degrees) after saying goodbye to my parents who managed to get there about twenty minutes before flight time. Made a perfect connection in Chicago, full plane, mostly vacationers headed for Acapulco. It takes only three and a half hours to fly from Chicago to Mexico City. The sun was shining and the air was clear and crisp when I saw Mexico for the first time. I arrived at the Maria Cristina Hotel in mid afternoon and had the pleasure of sitting in the garden and leisurely drinking a beer.
Before dinner I took a taxi down the Reforma to the Maria Isabela, a new hotel near the Angel monument. What a plushy place! It is really beautiful with original Oroszcos on the walls. I also visited an art gallery in the hotel. Not much good stuff. Back to the M.C. for dinner and early to bed.
Wednesday, Feb 12 — Today I walked from the hotel to the Paseo de la Reforma, a broad lovely avenue with parks on each side. This part of town is known as the Zona Rosa. I went up the Reforma to the Angel Monument and found myself back at the Maria Isabela. Before this point I had visited a small arcade of shops and galleries near Hamburgo and Londres. Many beautiful Mexican crafts. In the afternoon I went to the Palacio de Bellas Artes and saw the Rivera, Oroszco, Siquieros, and Tomayo murals. The rest of the museum collection was all Mexican paintings. Not much modern stuff. The whole building depressed me with its big marble masses and poor lighting.
Thursday, Feb 13 — After breakfast I started the day off with a walk from the hotel to a shop called Artes and Antiguedades on the Reforma. He has many nice things but prices are way from what they were two or three years ago, in the States. There is a beautiful little santos about eight inches high that I like very much. Today I learned about pesero taxis. When I hailed a cab and he stopped I found two people already in the cab. I finally got the idea that I can ride any distance on the main thoroughfare for a peso (8 cents). Any trips away from the Reforma or other main streets call for regular fare. I found my way to the National Palace to see the Aztec and Mayan treasures. They are wonderful things and the reproductions of the wall paintings at Bonampak are really fantastic. Then to the National cathedral where a competent guide took me around. It was started in the 16th century and is a copy of the cathedral in Seville. I had lunch in the arcade and visited other antique shops, had my hair done at the El Presidente hotel. Back for dinner at the Maria Cristina. Jim called from Cleveland and it was good to hear from him and Steve.
Friday, Feb 14 — Set off on a hotel-arranged tour for the shrine of Guadalupe and the pyramids of Teotihuacan in the company of a French girl, Sixtine, and two priests from New Jersey. The ruins of the pyramids far exceeded my expectations, absolutely stunning in size and concept. We had dinner on Calle Liverpool at El Refugio restaurant. Good Mexican food.
Saturday, Feb 15 — This morning Sixtine and I started off on a shopping tour of Hamburgo Street and while trying to read our city map we met a young American, Tom Ekstrom, who is in Mexico working for General Electric. After a lot of conversation we agreed to meet at the Pan-Am building roof for dinner, then go on to hear the Mariachis. We went on with our shopping and I ordered a black leather bag. Then we went to Juarez Street, visited bookstores, and ended up at the Majestic Hotel roof garden for lunch. It overlooks the Zocalo, National Cathedral, and the National Palace. My new friend, Sixtine de Barbuat, is a young woman from Paris who is traveling with her god-mother, Ruth Oenslager, who lives in Akron. Ruth met us for lunch and as usual the food was very good. After that Sixtine and I went to see the glass blowers, which is in a terrible section of town. We had a fine time watching and picking out a few pieces to take home. Ruth was not feeling well enough to go out for dinner so Sixtine and I proceeded to the Pan-Am roof wondering if our new friend (hers really) Tom would show up. He was there holding a table for us and who should be sitting at the next table but Father Casserly and Father Boland. We chatted from table to table and made a dinner date for Sunday. They called it an appointment, to be proper. After dinner, we three went by taxi to the plaza where the Mariachi bands play in the streets on Saturday night. Tom had been there before and was a fine guide. There is a night club facing the plaza called Guadalajara a Noche. What a lot of fun it was.
Sunday, Feb 16 — I went to the Ballet Folklorico this morning at 9:30, early for that sort of thing but well worth getting up for. Went back to the hotel for lunch and to say goodbye to Sixteen and Ruth before they left for Acapulco. In the afternoon I went to Chapultapec Park and saw the castle where Maximilian and Carlotta lived. I walked through the park which is popular on Sundays. This evening I was the guest of the two priests and we had a fine dinner at the Maria Isabela. They are leaving for Acapulco too.
Monday, Feb 17 — I am getting a cold and feel quite tired. Did a little shopping today and had dinner at the hotel. Got a call from home and talked to my parents as well as Jim and Steve.
Tuesday, Feb 18 — Went out to finish my shopping and had to go all the way down town to get my ticket to San Miguel de Allende. My cold is in full bloom and a real pain.
Wednesday, Feb 19 — Rose at six thirty and left the hotel for the train station. Not many Americans on the train for San Miguel — two couples from New Jersey. The trip took seven and a half hours winding through desolate country. When I finally arrived at the Hotel Instituto they had not received my letter requesting a reservation, so tonight I am staying in a pensione-type place called Hotel Colonial. Very Mexican, courtyards, etc. $5 per day with three meals. Steak tonight was delicious especially after no lunch.
Thursday, Feb 20 — I spent a chilly night under two Mexican rugs with plenty of ventilation from a foot square hole in the ceiling. Local idea of air conditioning! At breakfast I met another guest at the hotel, Mrs. Paul Headland (Margaret) from Chicago. She is a writer taking a course at the Instituto de Artes. Walked all around town, took pictures, visited shops, etc. Also got some mail at the Instituto. After dinner I read a while and got to sleep early. My cold is a little better.
Friday, Feb 21 — Walked over to the Instituto with Margaret and got a guest card for the lecture at 6 P.M. on Mexican history. After the lecture Margaret and I went to El Patio bar for a Margarita. What a strong drink! Then dinner at the hotel and bed early. Also had my hair done.
Saturday, Feb 22 — Today was more interesting. While walking in the square this morning, Margaret recognized Arthur Lewis, an author who had spoken to their writing class. We chatted and when we told him and Mrs. Lewis about our native hotel they wanted to see it and when they did they promptly moved in! A friend of theirs came to the hotel for lunch, Marnie Christie, along with her young daughter. She turned out to be an old Clevelander. She went to the Cleveland Institute of Art and is now getting her masters at the Instituto de Allende. That afternoon we all went to a spa not too far out of town. There was a hot spring swimming pool. The water was hot, about 105 degrees and felt marvelous. Since I had no bathing suit with me, I was offered a choice of two suits to rent, a very large one and a very small one. I modestly chose the large one. There was also a resident mongoose at the spa for what reason I didn’t care to ask. We came back about 5:30. After dinner at the hotel with the Lewises we went to Marnie’s house to see some slides of her paintings.
Sunday, Feb 23 — Visited with the Lewises until they left after lunch. Two letters from home. Not feeling too well. Margaret H. and Simone Des Jardins returned from week-end trip.
[editor’s note: the following entries for Feb 23 appear to be incidental notations, separate from the main narrative.]
Names: Antonia, Rosalva, Lauda, Wenceslao.
The upstairs room at Hotel Colonial no. 15 is sunny, good for winter.
Arthur Lewis’s book, “The Day They Shook The Plum Tree”, is a biography of Hettie Green.
El Diamante jewelry shop has uncut stones and set ones. Everything is made in the shop.
Sugar cookies – M. Headland
– 1 stick butter
– 1 egg
– 1 c. sugar
– 1 c. plus 2 tbl. flour
– salt, vanilla, roll, cut, flatten, bake
Monday, Feb 24 — Montezuma’s revenge on top of my cold. Went to bed in the afternoon and stayed there.
Tuesday, Feb 25 — Much better this morning. Went to the Instituto to look around. The buildings are old Spanish colonial. Saw a vermilion flycatcher in the garden. Had cocktails and dinner with Simone Des Jardins at El Patio. She is from Montreal. Talked to the family and told them I was going to Yucatan if everything was all right at home. They didn’t sound very enthusiastic but I’m going anyway. (Jim had broken his leg skiing at Ellicottville where he had taken Steve and a friend for the Washington’s birthday holiday. They didn’t tell me when I called.) 1994 note.
Wednesday, Feb 26 — I left San Miguel de Allende for Mexico City traveling by first class bus. Big difference in comfort and speed. The trip was four and a half hours compared with seven and a half on the train. Checked in at the Maria Cristina.
Thursday, Feb 27 — I did errands at the airline and Sanborns, and then to a second visit to the archeological museum before going to El Refugio for lunch. Took the 7:45 plane for Merida, proceeded to the Hotel Colon which is an Art Nouveau job out of space.
Friday, Feb 28 — At 8:30 I left with a guided group from the hotel for the famous ruins at Chichen Itza. French girl (again!), Carla Esser, Canadian Michael Stewart, and playboy Murrel Holcomb. The trip was two hours each way but the ruins were worth it. They were magnificent and much larger than I expected. Returning to the hotel about five, rested, ate dinner alone, then saw Carla and chatted with her and a man from Wisconsin who was going jaguar hunting. We went to the Continental restaurant for a beer.
Saturday, Feb 29 — I left for Uxmal with Michael Stewart and a Mexican couple. Saw Uxmal and Kabah — even better than Chichen Itza. Since I had signed up for a week tour, tonight was a night on the town. We celebrated Carla’s birthday with dinner at Faisan y El Venado (the Pheasant and the Deer). After that we went to Tulipanes, a huge outdoor nightclub to watch Mexican dancing. We were escorted by a guide from the hotel.
Sunday, Mar 1 — Up rather late, visited one of the many churches, walked around town, rode around in a horse cab, walked some more, went with Carla to the Continental for dinner. It was absolutely the best meal in Mexico so far. This restaurant is run by Lebanese people as are many of the businesses in Yucatan.
Monday, Mar 2 — Did a walking tour of Merida once more, visited small shops. Later a farewell drink with Carla and Mike before he leaves for Alaska.
Tuesday, Mar 3 — Left by first class bus for Progreso, the nearest port. (40 min, two and a half pesos). I found the town deserted as it is a summer resort. Got stranded at a seaside hotel (closed) with a broken phone and had to take a bus (unclassified) back to Progreso el centro. Then went by second class bus (1 hour, one and a half pesos) back to Merida. Loafed the afternoon away. Had dinner at El Tirol and said goodbye to Carla who is leaving by bus for Mexico City via Villa Hermosa and Vera Cruz. Good luck to her! That’s tough country.
Wednesday, Mar 4 — Visited the Merida museum this morning. They have a small but excellent collection of Mayan art. Rested by the pool until time to leave for the airport and Mexico City. Joined a party of marathon drinkers at the pool to pass the time. What bores! Flew to Mexico City at 7:30, then to the Maria Cristina and home tomorrow, March 5. Home to the broken leg. Jim met me at the airport in a wheelchair with Bobby Griesinger dressed as a nurse. My parents were there too.